Specific Stromer<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The rear brake in particular often makes squeaking noises on the Stromer. The front brake can also squeal. In addition to the reasons mentioned above, they may be amplified by design \u201epeculiarities\u201c on Stromer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the rear, the brake disk is mounted directly on the left-hand flange of the hub motor. This acts as a resonance amplifier (drum effect). A solid, hollow rigid fork is installed at the front, which also serves as a resonance body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are also differences depending on whether braking occurs in wet or dry conditions. \u201eWet\u201c is always louder! The brake pad (sinter\/organic = resin) also influences the soundscape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A problem solution is usually not 100%% sustainable. As two power traders confirmed to me, the whimpering or squeaking cannot be permanently eliminated. Sooner or later it returns, no matter what you do. Rebuilding the system for another product also does not solve the problem, is correspondingly expensive, and Stromer fundamentally prohibits modifications to the braking system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Solution approaches<\/h3>\n\n\n\n1. Properly break in\/bed in brakes<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
Before looking for other causes for the squealing, make sure that the brakes are braked in and, in the case of resin pads, that they are also burned in. Stromer offers a resonance damper disk for the rear wheel. It is mounted between the brake disk and the motor flange. One way of reducing noise is to install organic (resin) surfaces. Noise reduction can be achieved at least in dry weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the wet, resin pads squeal even more than the original sintered pads, at least until they are braked dry. They usually have a slightly softer pressure point, but then brake just as well as the sintered pads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Resin linings, like sinter linings, need to be bedded in but also cured. This is done by braking on a downhill slope and heating the linings to over 200 \u00b0C. The solvents then gas off, achieving optimal braking performance and minimizing noise. This step is not necessary for sinter linings. Practical experience:<\/strong> I've been using SwissStop brake pads on my ST3 for the past 10,000 km or so. Together with the Motor01 spacer, the combination is silent in dry conditions. In wet conditions, they also squeak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From SwissStop there is the Disc Brake Silencer<\/a>, a spray that diffuses into the brake pad to reduce noise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Practical experience:<\/strong> A noise reduction occurs with the original Stromer TRP pads. However, the effect does not last very long and the silencer must be reapplied. <\/p>\n\n\n\n S-Ped riders also report that applying copper paste to the back of the brake pads helps. The following solution is a somewhat unconventional approach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Practical experience: <\/strong>None<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ich verwende hinten die Resonanzd\u00e4mpferscheibe gem\u00e4ss L\u00f6sungsansatz Zwei und fahre organischenBel\u00e4ge von SwissStop (Disc 15E). Vorne verwende ich Resinbel\u00e4ge von TopBrake (BD01-E+). Die Bel\u00e4ge habe ich sauber eingebremst, die Bremss\u00e4ttel jeweils genau zentriert sowie die Kolbenr\u00fcckstellung kontrolliert. Mit diesen Massnahmen fahre ich bei trockenen Verh\u00e4ltnissen meist ohne Quietschen. Bei hoher Luftfeuchte ist manchmal ein kurzes Wimmern zu h\u00f6ren. Bei Regenwetter quietschen die Bel\u00e4ge immer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n See<\/a> BREMSEN - 'Spare parts....'<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Zum Thema Bremsen kann man B\u00fccher schreiben. Wie beim Thema Akku oder Kette gibt es viele verschiedene Ansichten. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Ein paar weiterf\u00fchrende Links zum Thema:
See<\/a> BREMSEN - 'Brake in\/burn in brakes'<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nResonance damper disc for the rear wheel<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
Practical experience:<\/strong> Works!<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/01d0a9e2-1631-428c-9ba8-4666ffce0a6f.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n3. Use resin (organic) coatings<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
See<\/a> BREMSEN - 'Brake in\/burn in brakes'<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n4. Brake Silencer<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
Copper paste<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
Practical experience:<\/strong> None. The sluggish consistency of the paste allows for vibration damping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n6. Balancing weights as vibration dampers<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/0f360998-8f0f-43fe-8988-4ddd6b7a077a.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMy experience with the ST3<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Alternatives to the original pads<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Links<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
> Solving problems with the brake - a list of problems and solutions<\/a> (mtb-news.de)
> Scheibenbremse quietscht: die 7 wahren Ursachen (nicht \u00d6l, nicht N\u00e4sse) <\/a>(Olafs Pedal & Perspektive)
> The most common problems with disc brakes<\/a> (lucky-bike.de)
> Ein \u00dcberblick zum Thema Bremsbel\u00e4ge, deren Vor- und Nachteile oder Eignung, bietet u.a. die Seite\u00a0flowzone.ch<\/a>\u00a0or\u00a0velonerd.cc<\/a>.
> Bremsen will auch gelernt sein, nicht nur wegen den Bel\u00e4gen, sondern um Unf\u00e4lle zu vermeiden. Wie man richtig bremst, ist im\u00a0Article by Sheldon Brown<\/a>\u00a0described.<\/p>\n\n\n\n