- \n
- Pedals<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Bottom bracket<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Crankset<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Front wheel bearing<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rear wheel bearing<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Rims (shock)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Spokes (tension)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tires<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Handlebars<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Headset (steering head bearing)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stanchions and immersion tubes (suspension fork)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Rear derailleur<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cassette<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Chain<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Seat post or seat clamp<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cables \/ Brake lines inside or outside the frame<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tools in the saddlebag or toolbox<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Brake pads<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wavy brake disc - touches the brake pads on the side<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Brake caliper - brake disc touches the caliper base due to poor adjustment
<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\nAnalysis<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Three questions:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- When<\/strong> Do you hear the noise - when pedaling, when putting weight on the saddle or handlebars?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- How<\/strong> often <\/strong>Do you hear the sound - rhythmically or at irregular intervals?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Where<\/strong> Can you hear the noise - can you locate the source of the noise while driving?<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
General control<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you cannot clearly identify the source of the noise, check the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Check that all fasteners on the bike are tight.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Do the wheels or the crank axle have play?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Can I move the handlebars in the direction of travel with the brakes applied?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Are components with torque specifications (thru-axles, bottom brackets, head tubes, cassettes, etc.) correctly mounted and tightened to the correct torque?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the chain lubricated and smooth-running, are the belt and the pulleys clean?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Are there any loose spokes?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Are the brake pads worn?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Does the brake piston reset function?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Noise sources on my ST3<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
My own experiences with noise sources on the Stromer are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Clattering in rear wheel 1<\/strong> - Caused by the rim impact<\/a>.
Solution: Rim joint regrained and additionally secured with Loctite 290.<\/li>\n\n\n\n- Clattering in rear wheel 2<\/strong> \u2013 Caused by the tire bead sticking to the rim flange. Solution: Treat the tire bead with talcum powder or Teflon spray before mounting.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Clattering of the front wheel<\/strong> \u2013 Caused by the intersection points of the spokes.
Solution: Lubricate the cross points with a drop of oil.<\/li>\n\n\n\n- Grinding noise from the front wheel<\/strong> The brake caliper was not adjusted correctly in height. In a curve, the brake disc lightly touched the lower part of the brake caliper.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Creaking in the bottom bracket area<\/strong> - Caused by the wave washer running between the crank and the bearing or a self- loose left crank arm<\/a>.
Solution: Drip a drop of chain oil between the shaft collar and the bearing. Check the crank arm for axial play.<\/li>\n\n\n\n- Creaking 1<\/strong> Caused by a dry seat tube.
Solution: Remove the seatpost and lubricate it with a film of bearing grease. Tighten the seat clamp with the correct torque.<\/li>\n\n\n\n- Creaking 2<\/strong> - Caused by slightly loosened pinch bolts on the fork in the stem.
Solution: Tighten the steerer tube clamp bolts with the correct torque (top bolt at 9 Nm, bottom at 8 Nm \/ ST5 both at 10 Nm) alternately in the correct order.<\/li>\n\n\n\n- Squealing - Rear brakes<\/strong>
Solution: Fit organic brake pads and Resonance damper disk<\/a> install.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\nA few examples<\/h3>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/e1612e85-9751-4b96-828c-dfe8a183506a.jpg\")
Worn retaining ring (metallic driving noise)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/a4b12373-1424-4849-af30-4812430c5fa3.jpg\")
Flared rear wheel axle mount ST1 X (produces a clicking noise when starting off)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/b61bdb2a-2679-48ee-86a0-c7a3246478a9.jpg\")
Rusty engine mount due to water in the engine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/c7b26aa8-c217-4cee-9ca5-6f46f1348f43.jpg\")
Rusty crank bearing and ISIS crank arm mount<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/8793b4b9-39ca-4925-82ae-b89b4e6852a5.jpg\")
Defective crankset with bearing run-in marks on the axle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/Stromer_Felgenstoss_AlexRims_Reparatur.jpg\")
Rim joint loose (clacking with every rotation of the wheel)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/e453bc39-0277-4ed8-a16b-d26cd271ac5f.jpg\")
Crankset: Spindle washer making noise when rotating<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/90b6cee7-6cbd-44a1-bb85-f7c656ff4ff9.jpg\")
Worn or glazed brake pads<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/f3923cf7-6f79-4af7-9ba4-af8eaa8c1172.jpg\")
Chain too short and rusty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n \n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/50c51301-48cb-4c8a-a2fd-9f5754b954a8.jpg\")
Freewheel pawls unlubricated and blocked<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/0c5c67f7-94cf-4958-8d9d-dbefb54607f7.jpg\")
Heavy dirt on the derailleur creates running noise and shifting problems<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/99eebb91-5c4b-4e0e-814a-4cbba3aa9996.jpg\")
Cracked spokes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/4c09c3b8-8908-499c-9c1b-4cfedd6ce97e.jpg\")
A rusty or poorly lubricated headset (ST5-\/ ST7-Pinion) will produce creaking noises.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/ST5_ST7_Lenkkopflager-knarzt_fetten-b-1024x679.jpeg\")
Squeaking in the handlebars (ST5 \/ ST7). The headset bearings need to be lubricated.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/62abe27e-fe56-4c9b-bfbf-446e69d2fcf1.jpg\")
Image: ST3 \/ ST5 with the old, oval steerer tube. The upper screw must be tightened to 9 Nm on the ST3, the lower one to 8 Nm. On the ST5, both screws are tightened alternately to 10 Nm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n \n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/aea814b7-5dc8-4e7f-9af8-c1f101059a3c.jpg\")
Belt rubs against the frame<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Ger\u00e4usche \u2013 abgesehen von jenen des normalen Fahrbetriebs \u2013 k\u00f6nnen viele Ursachen haben. Eines haben alle gemeinsam: Sie nerven! Ein Ger\u00e4usch wird man bei Stromern, wenn alles einwandfrei funktioniert, nicht finden \u2013 n\u00e4mlich das Motorger\u00e4usch. Anders als Mittelmotoren arbeiten Nabenmotoren nahezu ger\u00e4uschlos oder zumindest so leise, dass man sie im…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"ht-kb-category":[211],"ht-kb-tag":[293,296,354,294,297],"class_list":["post-1760","ht_kb","type-ht_kb","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","ht_kb_category-p-diverses","ht_kb_tag-geraeusche","ht_kb_tag-klacken","ht_kb_tag-klicken","ht_kb_tag-knarzen","ht_kb_tag-schleifen"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb\/1760","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/ht_kb"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1760"}],"version-history":[{"count":48,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb\/1760\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11777,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb\/1760\/revisions\/11777"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1760"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"ht_kb_category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb-category?post=1760"},{"taxonomy":"ht_kb_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wp.stromer-tech.info\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ht-kb-tag?post=1760"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
- Clattering in rear wheel 2<\/strong> \u2013 Caused by the tire bead sticking to the rim flange. Solution: Treat the tire bead with talcum powder or Teflon spray before mounting.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Clattering in rear wheel 1<\/strong> - Caused by the rim impact<\/a>.
- How<\/strong> often <\/strong>Do you hear the sound - rhythmically or at irregular intervals?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- When<\/strong> Do you hear the noise - when pedaling, when putting weight on the saddle or handlebars?<\/li>\n\n\n\n